History and the Present Collide in the Wine Regions of Romania

Romania has nearly 11,500 years of viticultural history. And now, it is digging into its roots, embracing modern techniques, and becoming a wine-producing heavyweight. Romania lies on the same latitude as France. But in addition to the usual French vines, they have their own heirloom grapes that bring their history vividly to life.

History of Wine Production in Romania

Prehistoric Viticulture in Romania

If you search for “when did wine production begin in Romania,” you will get a lot of different answers. Articles will tell you modern wine production began after 2007. Others will put the date at 2,000, 4,000, or 10,000 years ago--with no source indicated. It took a while, but we were able to find a review of the archaeological records in The Botanical Review 2020. Current archaeological evidence puts the earliest known wine production date in Romania as far back as the early Holocene (c. 9,700 BCE). 

The Blight and Communism

Winemaking continued in Romania until the 1880s when it was hit by a blight caused by members of the Phylloxera family. Phylloxera is a family of small insects that feed on the vines' roots and leaves. For grapes, aphids are to Phylloxera as reptiles are to the creature in Alien. It devastated the native vines. The restoration took decades in the form of planting French varieties. These were resistant to the sap-sucking Phylloxera.

Barely restored, the local vineyards took another hit via political ideology. During the communist regime, the quantity was deemed more important than quality. So Romania’s vineyards were filled with mediocre but heavy-producing grapes.

21st Century

Photo credits to Dennis Jarvis from Halifax, Canada

Now, Romania is one of the largest producers in all of Europe and the largest in Eastern Europe. Part of this is due to geography. The Carpathian Mountains provide Romania with a variety of soils suited for viticulture and also shelter the area. The results are moderate temperatures and a long Fall season, giving the grapes increased complexity and flavor.

Since the creation of the EU, there has been heavy outside investment from European countries, including Germany, Australia, France, and Italy. This has increased wine production and improved farming and wine-making methods. Still, Romanians haven’t given up their history. And heirloom varieties are core to the future of the Romanian premium wine market.

Romanian Heirloom Varieties

Before we tour the Romanian wine regions, let's take a look at their heirloom grape varieties.

Feteasca Neagră is one of the oldest grape varieties. It was cultivated over 2,000 years ago by the Dacians, ancestors of modern Romanians. The wines made from these grapes are known for their deep ruby color with flavors of blackberry, dark cherries, plums, and chocolate. The name translates as “black maiden.” This variety was initially grown in Southern Moldavia and Eastern Wallachia. But now, Feteasca Neagră has become popular throughout Romania's wine-producing regions.

Related to Feteasca Neagră, Feteasca Albă is the “white maiden.” This aromatic white does well in dry varietals as well as sparkling wines and blends.

Another ancient grape from the same area, Crâmpoșie Selecționată, needed a little help from modern science. Unlike other grapes, Crâmpoșie Selecționată cannot self-fertilize. So the ancient form of Crâmpoșie Selecționată was hybridized to create a modern version that could self-fertilize. Crâmpoșie Selecționată is valued for its high sugar and acidity. It is used to produce delectable sparkling wines with notes of apple, pear, and citrus, and grounded with mineral notes.

Feteasca Neagră also called Black Maiden. One of the oldest grape varieties. 

Related to Muscat, Tamâioasa Românească is sometimes called “the frankincense grape.” It also has a long history in Romania, likely arriving from Greece over 2,000 years ago. The Romanian variety is a clone of one of the oldest grapes in the world, Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains. Tamâioasa Românească produces dry aromatic whites, which can be sparkling or flat. Aging brings out notes of wildflowers, acacia, and honey.

Another Grecian import, Busuioaca de Bohotin, was discovered to be growing in the Iași region of Moldavia in the 1920s. This red wine grape is unusual for its rose petal and basil aromatics, accompanied by notes of honey, strawberries, and spice.

Băbeasca Neagră is a grape first described in the 14th century and grown at the Nicorești winery. Wines from this grape tend to be red and fruity; they are known for their high acidity and hints of dried plums, and notes of flowers from peony to iris.

Dense golden-yellow grapes which turn rusty as they ripen are hallmarks of Galbena de Odobești, a popular grape variety grown in Vrancea. Galbena de Odobești produces delicate wines with floral and herbaceous notes and a nice balance of sugar and acidity.

Grasā de Cotnari was, in the 19th Century, the most famous of Romanian wines in Europe, rivaling Hungarian Tokay. When infected with Noble Rot, Grasā de Cotnari is barrel-aged in oak for six months to two years. Aging continues in the bottle for up to 25 years, allowing the tantalizing aromatics locked in the grape to mature.

Grasā de Cotnari is the most famous Romanian wine in Europe.

Discovered in Transylvania in the 1930s, Feteasca Regală was a happenstance cross between Grasă de Cotnari and Feteasca Albă. The result was a grape capable of producing semi-aromatic, dry, perfumed whites. When aged in oak, more aromatics, including rose, almond, wildflowers, and dried apricots, are released. 

Negru de Drăgășani is the last of the native Romanian grapes for our review. It is also one of the newest.  Created by individual selections of hybridized vines of Negru Vartos and Saperavi, Negru de Drăgășani was released in 1993. Negru de Drăgășani makes a fresh and fruity red with notes of black cherries, blue and blackberries, and spices.

The Wine Regions of Romania

Starting in the east, we will work our way west and review Romania's six major wine regions. We’ll look at the climate, soil, and major grape varieties of each.

Dobrogea Hills Region

The Dobrogea (sometimes spelled Dobruja) Hills wine region is the farthest east. It lies along the Black Sea and includes the Danube Delta. With 300 days of sun a year, you’d expect the area to be hot, but the coastal breezes moderate the temperatures. The soil is a mix of volcanic, shale, limestone, and gravel. Many winemakers in the region have moved to organic farming practices.

The earliest cultivation dates back to the 14th century when the primary wine of the region was Băbeasca Neagră. (It’s one of the reds above, known for its high acidity and fruity palate.)

The most common reds of the region, in addition to Băbeasca Neagră, are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Feteasca Neagra, and Pinot Noir. Whites tend to be late harvest medium-dry or sweet wines. These include Feteasca Alba, Feteasca Regal, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Muscat Ottonel, Riesling Italico, and Tamiloasa.

Moldavian Hills Region

North and west of Dobrogea lie in the Moldavian Hills wine region. It borders the Republic of Moldova. Viticulture here dates back to the Thracian tribes that lived in the area over 2,000 years ago, with evidence of their presence dating back to 1,300 BCE. Most of the vineyards lie on terraced hills. This aids in draining the soil, which is a mix of limestone, marl, and clay. The climate is Temperate Continental with hot summers and snowy winters.

This area is also known for Grasă de Cotnari, produced in a sub-region called Cotnari (coat-nar). The wine produced there once rivaled Hungary’s Tokay. It was a favorite of the Paris elites of the 19th century.

Although more heavily planted in whites, reds of the region include Cabernet Sauvignon, Băbească Neagră, Merlot, Fetească Neagră. The whites focus on heritage strains including Fetească Regală, Fetească Albă, Welschriesling, Tămâioasă Româneascăsca Regala, Tămâioasă Românească.

Muntenia & Oltenia Hills Region

Romania's southernmost wine region includes the up-and-coming sub-region, The Danube Terraces. Muntenia and Oltenia are known for their hot summers, minimal rainfall, and cold winters. The soil is clay and chalk. Its high concentration of calcium carbonate gives the wines produced in the region a velvety mouthfeel. Most of the vineyards in the area sit at the base of the Carpathian mountains. This protects them from the more severe Continental Climate.

Although a majority of the land is planted in native vines, their Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots shouldn’t be missed.

Reds of the region include Feteasca Neagra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Burgund Mare. Whites tend to the sweet side with Welschriesling, Feteasca Alba, Pinot Gris, Muscat Ottonel, and Tămâioasă Românească.

Transylvania Highlands/Plateau

The land of Dracula - Transylvania Plateau is the highest wine-producing area of Romania.

The land of Dracula is known more for its white wines than reds. The Transylvania Plateau is the highest wine-producing area of Romania, with an average altitude of 2,000 feet (609 meters). The soil is a mix of alluvial, stone, and sand. Many vintners in the region opt for organic farming methods to preserve the unique natural soil.

Popular whites include Fetească Albă, Traminer Rose, Olasz Rizling, Muscat Ottonel, and Fetească Regală. Some vintners use the native whites to make sparkling wines in the Champagne style. Reds include Pinot Noir, Merlot, Burgund Mare, and Cadarcă.

Crisana Maramures Hills

In the northwest corner of Romania is the Crisana Maramures Hills wine region. From the late 1800s until WWI, this region exported most of its wine to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The climate in the Mediterranean, with long, warm Falls, mild Springs, and relatively high rainfall. The soil is a variable mix of volcanic, shale, gravel, and limestone. Among the most photogenic of all the wine regions, the area is sprinkled with historic villages and towns. It is also famous for its hot springs.

The primary red grape grown in the region is Cadarca, which was winning awards as far back as 1862. Unlike the other wine regions of Romania, this area relies more on modern red grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. The major whites are Fetească Regală and Fetească Albă, as well as Welschriesling, Muscat Ottonel, Traminer, and Furmint.

Banat Hills Region

The last of the major wine regions, Banat Hills, lies in the country's southwest, where it borders Serbia. Viticulture in the Banat Hills dates back to the 3rd Century and the Roman occupation. The Banat Mountains to the east protect this landlocked area from the heat of the summer, making the climate cooler than one would expect. Soils are a mix of alluvial, stone, and sand. Legend has it that the Roman god Bacchus and the Dacian wine god Dionysus were born in Banat.

The reds grown are a mix of modern and heirloom. They include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Black Feteasca, Grand Burgundy, Cadarca, Syrah, and Novac. (Novac is a recent variety created from Negru Vârtos, an almost forgotten Romania grape, and Saperavi, similar to Negru de Drăgășani but with a bolder character.)

Whites produced in this region are similar in character to many German white wines. They include Muscat Ottonel, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Royal Feteasca, White Feteasca, Italian Riesling, and Majorca.

Final Thoughts

When you think of Romania, maybe your mind immediately comes up with images of Olympic great Nadia Comăneci or the Legend of Dracula. But give it a few years, and we think you’ll be picturing wine.

Like New Zealand and Brazil, Romanian wine production is just hitting its stride. Unlike those other regions, Romania is already rich with unique heirloom vines they are just starting to explore. And here in the U.S., we are just starting to see them on the shelves of our local wine shops.

The farm-to-table, forage-to-table, and grain-to-glass movements are pushing winemakers and distillers in new directions. With Romania’s unique heirloom vines, it is a country poised to take advantage of this trend.

Have a favorite Romanian wine? Or questions about wine and global wine regions? Drop us a note in the comments.

~ Cheers!